What Does Winterizing a Hot Tub Mean?
Winterizing means getting your hot tub ready for cold weather so it doesn’t get damaged by freezing temperatures. Think of it like putting your hot tub to sleep for winter—you drain the water, clean everything, and protect the pipes from ice.
Why winterize? Water expands when it freezes (like ice cubes getting bigger in your freezer). This can crack pipes, break pumps, and destroy your hot tub. One freeze can cause $1,000-$3,000 in damage!
When to winterize:
- You won’t use your hot tub all winter
- Temperatures drop below 32°F (0°C) regularly
- You’re leaving home for extended periods
- Electricity costs are too high in winter
- You want to give your hot tub a long break
Do You Really Need to Winterize?
Not everyone needs to winterize! Here’s how to decide:
Winterize if:
✓ You live where temps drop below freezing for weeks
✓ You won’t use the hot tub for 2+ months
✓ Heating costs are too expensive
✓ You’re selling your home
✓ You’re going on long vacation in winter
Keep it running if:
✓ You use it regularly in winter (many people do!)
✓ You live in mild winter areas
✓ Electricity costs aren’t a concern
✓ You can monitor it during freezing weather
Fun fact: Many hot tub owners LOVE using their spa in winter! There’s nothing like soaking in 104°F water while snowflakes fall around you. If you winterize, you miss out on this amazing experience.
What You’ll Need (Shopping List)
Gather these items before starting:
Required Tools:
- Wet/dry vacuum (shop vac)
- Garden hose
- Large buckets (2-3)
- Towels or old rags (10-15)
- Submersible pump (optional but helpful)
Required Supplies:
- Hot tub antifreeze (NOT automotive antifreeze!)
- Filter cleaner solution
- Vinyl cover cleaner
- Lubricant for cover locks
Safety Gear:
- Rubber gloves
- Old clothes (you’ll get wet!)
- Knee pads (optional, but helpful)
Where to buy: Pool supply stores, hardware stores, Amazon Total cost: $30-60 for supplies
IMPORTANT WARNING: Never use car antifreeze (ethylene glycol) in your hot tub. It’s toxic! Only use propylene glycol “hot tub antifreeze” or “RV antifreeze.”
Step-by-Step Winterization Process
Step 1: Turn Off the Power (Safety First!)
This is the most important step for your safety!
- Go to your home’s electrical panel (breaker box)
- Find the breaker labeled “Hot Tub” or “Spa”
- Flip it to the OFF position
- Put tape over it with a note: “DO NOT TURN ON – Winterizing”
- Return to hot tub and verify power is off (no lights, no sounds)
Why this matters: Water and electricity are dangerous together. Always disconnect power before working on your hot tub.
Step 2: Drain All the Water
Time needed: 1-2 hours
Method 1: Using the drain valve (slowest)
- Locate drain valve at bottom of hot tub
- Attach garden hose to valve
- Run hose to appropriate drainage area
- Open valve and let water drain
- Takes 1-2 hours depending on tub size
Method 2: Using a submersible pump (fastest)
- Place pump in deepest part of hot tub
- Attach hose to pump outlet
- Run hose to drainage area
- Plug in pump and let it work
- Takes 30-45 minutes
Where to drain:
- Storm drain (if local laws allow)
- Downhill away from house foundation
- Street (check local regulations)
- Garden or lawn (if water is chemically balanced)
Pro tip: If your water has lots of chemicals, drain to storm drain or street—not on grass or plants!
Step 3: Remove and Clean the Filters
While water drains, clean your filters:
- Remove filter cartridges from housings
- Rinse with garden hose to remove debris
- Soak in filter cleaning solution (follow product directions)
- Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear
- Let air dry completely (takes 24 hours)
- Store in dry location (garage, basement)
Why clean before storing? Dirty filters grow mold and bacteria over winter. You’ll have a smelly mess in spring!
Filter replacement tip: If filters are more than 1 year old or look damaged, replace them before winterizing. Fresh filters next spring = better water quality.
Step 4: Blow Out the Plumbing Lines
This is the most critical step to prevent freeze damage!
Trapped water in pipes will freeze and crack them. You must remove ALL water from the plumbing system.
Using a shop vac (wet/dry vacuum):
- Remove all drain plugs from pumps and heater (check your manual for locations)
- Set shop vac to “blow” mode (reverse airflow)
- Place shop vac hose tightly against each jet opening
- Blow air for 30 seconds per jet
- Water will spray out—this is good!
- Repeat for ALL jets (including small ones)
- Blow out filter housings
- Blow out heater compartment
- Blow out ozone generator (if equipped)
Jets to check:
- Therapy jets (large spinning ones)
- Massage jets (smaller ones)
- Air control valves
- Waterfall features
- LED light housings
How do you know it’s working? You’ll hear air bubbling and see water spray out. When only air comes out (no more water), that section is done.
Don’t have a shop vac? Rent one from a hardware store for $20-30/day, or use compressed air from an air compressor.
Step 5: Add Antifreeze to Plumbing
Even after blowing out lines, add antifreeze for extra protection:
- Pour 1-2 gallons of hot tub antifreeze into filter housing
- Pour 1 cup into each jet opening
- Pour 1 cup into pump intakes
- Pour 2 cups into heater
- Pour antifreeze into any drain lines
How much antifreeze total?
- Small hot tub (200-300 gallons): 2-3 gallons
- Medium hot tub (300-400 gallons): 3-4 gallons
- Large hot tub (400-500+ gallons): 4-5 gallons
Why antifreeze? It prevents any remaining water from freezing and protects seals and gaskets.
Remember: Only use NON-TOXIC hot tub/RV antifreeze (propylene glycol), never automotive antifreeze!
Step 6: Clean the Hot Tub Shell
With water drained, give your tub a deep clean:
- Spray entire interior with hot tub shell cleaner
- Wipe down all surfaces with soft cloths
- Pay special attention to waterline (where scum builds up)
- Clean around jets and fittings
- Rinse with clean water from buckets
- Use towels to dry as much as possible
- Use shop vac to remove remaining water from bottom
DIY cleaner recipe: Mix 1 cup white vinegar with 1 gallon warm water. Works great and costs pennies!
Why clean now? Winter is long. Any dirt, oils, or bacteria left behind will grow and create stains. Clean now = easy startup in spring.
Step 7: Clean and Protect the Cover
Your cover protects your investment, so take care of it:
Top of cover:
- Spray with cover cleaner or mild soap solution
- Scrub gently with soft brush
- Rinse thoroughly with hose
- Let air dry completely (2-3 hours)
- Apply vinyl protectant (optional but recommended)
Underside of cover:
- Spray with diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water)
- Wipe clean with cloth
- Rinse well
- Air dry completely
Cover locks and hinges:
- Apply silicone lubricant to all moving parts
- This prevents rust and makes opening easier in spring
Step 8: Secure Everything for Winter
Final protection steps:
- Place cover on hot tub and lock it securely
- Add extra weight if you live in heavy snow areas (sandbags on top)
- Loosen cover straps slightly (allows air circulation, prevents mildew)
- Store chemicals in warm, dry place (NOT in hot tub cabinet!)
- Leave cabinet doors slightly open (prevents moisture buildup)
- Remove steps if possible (prevents ice damage)
- Cover electrical panel with weatherproof cover
- Document everything with photos on your phone
Cover protection tip: In areas with heavy snow, use a cover lifter or build a simple frame to keep snow weight off the cover. Too much snow weight can break covers!
Common Winterization Mistakes (Avoid These!)
Mistake 1: Not Removing All Water
The problem: Hidden water freezes and cracks equipment. The fix: Use shop vac thoroughly on every jet and opening. Be paranoid about water removal!
Mistake 2: Using Car Antifreeze
The problem: Automotive antifreeze is TOXIC and will ruin your hot tub. The fix: Only use propylene glycol hot tub/RV antifreeze. Check the label!
Mistake 3: Leaving Chemicals in Cabinet
The problem: Freezing temperatures damage chemicals and create toxic fumes in enclosed space. The fix: Store all chemicals indoors in a warm location.
Mistake 4: Tightening Cover Straps Too Much
The problem: Prevents air circulation, causing mildew and mold under cover. The fix: Secure cover but leave straps slightly loose for ventilation.
Mistake 5: Forgetting About Batteries
The problem: Backup batteries (in some control systems) can leak acid if frozen. The fix: Check your manual—remove batteries from control panels if recommended.
Mistake 6: Not Labeling Removed Parts
The problem: In spring, you forget where pieces go! The fix: Take photos with your phone and label everything in ziplock bags.
Two Methods: Full Winterization vs. Minimal Winterization
Full Winterization (Recommended for Harsh Winters)
Best for:
- Temperatures regularly below 20°F (-6°C)
- Extended absences (2+ months)
- No one checking on hot tub
- Severe winter weather areas
Process: Follow all 8 steps above Cost: $30-60 Time: 3-4 hours Protection level: Maximum
Minimal Winterization (Mild Winter Areas)
Best for:
- Mild winter areas (rare freezing)
- Short absences (2-4 weeks)
- Someone checking hot tub weekly
Quick process:
- Lower water temperature to 80°F (saves electricity)
- Reduce chemical dosing (add weekly instead of daily)
- Keep cover locked and secured
- Check weekly for freeze warnings
- Ready to boost heat if needed
Cost: $0 Time: 15 minutes Protection level: Basic (risky in true winter!)
Regional Winterization Guide
Northern States (Maine, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Montana):
- MUST fully winterize by November
- Expect 4-6 months of closure
- Use extra antifreeze (5+ gallons)
- Consider cover supports for heavy snow
Mid-Atlantic (Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana):
- Winterize by December
- 3-4 months typical closure
- Standard winterization sufficient
- Monitor weather for early cold snaps
Southern States (Georgia, Tennessee, Arkansas, Texas):
- Consider keeping hot tub running
- Only winterize for extended travel
- Freeze events are rare but can occur
- Quick winterization may be sufficient
Western States (Colorado, Wyoming, Utah in mountains):
- Winterize by October in high elevations
- 5-6 months possible closure
- Extra protection needed (altitude = colder)
- Heavy snow considerations important
Cost Comparison: Winterize vs. Keep Running
Winterizing costs:
- Antifreeze: $15-25
- Cleaning supplies: $10-20
- Shop vac rental (if needed): $20-30
- Total one-time cost: $45-75
Running through winter costs (4 months):
- Electricity for heating: $40-80/month
- Chemicals: $20-30/month
- Filter replacements: $30-50/season
- Total winter cost: $270-470
Savings by winterizing: $200-400 over one winter season!
BUT consider: Many owners say winter soaking is the BEST hot tub experience. That might be worth the cost to you!
Quick Winterization Checklist
Print this and check off as you go:
- Turn off power at breaker
- Drain all water completely
- Remove and clean filters
- Blow out all plumbing lines with shop vac
- Add antifreeze to all openings
- Clean shell thoroughly
- Dry remaining water with towels/vac
- Clean cover (top and bottom)
- Lubricate cover locks and hinges
- Secure cover properly
- Remove chemicals from cabinet
- Leave cabinet doors slightly open
- Store drain plugs safely
- Take photos for spring reference
- Mark calendar for spring opening
Spring De-Winterization Preview
When winter ends, you’ll need to:
- Reinstall all drain plugs (don’t lose them!)
- Flush antifreeze from lines
- Reinstall clean filters
- Refill with fresh water
- Restore power
- Balance water chemistry
- Run system for 24 hours before use
Time to de-winterize: 2-3 hours When to start: When nighttime temps stay above 35°F
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I winterize without antifreeze?
Not recommended! Even if you blow out lines perfectly, some water remains. Antifreeze is cheap insurance ($15-20).
How long does winterization take?
Plan 3-4 hours for first time. Once you’re experienced, 2-3 hours.
What if I winterized but need to use it during winter?
You’ll need to completely de-winterize (reverse all steps), which takes 3-4 hours. Not practical for quick use.
Can I winterize without draining?
NO! Water MUST be removed. Freezing water will destroy your hot tub.
What temperature triggers freeze damage?
Damage can occur at 32°F (0°C) if water isn’t circulating. Winterize before first hard freeze!
Final Thoughts
Winterizing your hot tub might seem like a big job, but it’s actually pretty simple once you understand the steps. The key is being thorough—especially with removing water from the plumbing lines.
Remember these golden rules:
- Turn off power FIRST (safety!)
- Remove ALL water (use shop vac on everything)
- Add antifreeze (cheap insurance)
- Clean everything now (makes spring easier)
- Store chemicals indoors (prevent damage)
- Document with photos (helps in spring)
Time investment: One afternoon of work Money saved: $200-400 in electricity + potential freeze damage Peace of mind: Priceless!
Whether you decide to winterize or keep your hot tub running through winter, now you have the knowledge to make the right choice for your situation. Stay warm, and happy soaking!